What Is Époisses?
Époisses de Bourgogne — to use its full, protected name — is arguably the most assertively aromatic cheese France has ever produced. Originating in the village of Époisses in the Côte-d'Or department of Burgundy, its origins trace back to the 16th century, when Cistercian monks at the nearby Abbey of Cîteaux are believed to have developed the cheese and shared the technique with local farmers. By the 19th century, it had become a firm favorite of Napoleon Bonaparte, who reportedly adored it above all others.
Production nearly died out entirely during the Second World War, but cheesemaker Robert Berthaut revived it in 1956, rescuing one of France's most distinctive wheels from extinction. Today, Époisses holds AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée) status, granted in 1991, and EU PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) protection — meaning authentic Époisses can only be produced in a strictly defined zone of Burgundy using local raw or pasteurized cow's milk. The cheese is made in small, shallow wooden boxes (which also serve as its packaging) and washed repeatedly over five to eight weeks with a brine enriched with Marc de Bourgogne, a local pomace brandy that gives the rind its distinctive burnished, terracotta hue.
Taste & Texture
Do not let the smell intimidate you — and it will try. Époisses carries a notoriously powerful aroma that bears little resemblance to what awaits on the palate. That sticky, rust-colored rind announces itself boldly, but the interior delivers something altogether more seductive: a silky, custardy paste that at peak ripeness practically spills from the rind like warm custard. The flavor is rich and beefy, with deep savory umami notes, a tangy lactic brightness, and a long, lingering earthiness. There is warmth from the Marc de Bourgogne, a subtle boozy sweetness that rounds out the funk beautifully. It is complex, layered, and utterly compelling.
How to Serve Époisses
Always bring Époisses to room temperature — remove it from the refrigerator at least one hour before serving. At the ideal 65–70°F (18–21°C), the paste becomes almost pourable. Serve it in its wooden box as a natural vessel and provide a small spoon for scooping. Crusty sourdough or a simple baguette is the ideal delivery mechanism. Roasted walnuts and a drizzle of wildflower honey make excellent accompaniments, cutting through the richness with texture and sweetness.
Époisses vs. Langres
| Feature | Époisses | Langres | |---|---|---| | Region | Côte-d'Or, Burgundy | Haute-Marne, Champagne | | Milk | Cow's milk | Cow's milk | | Rind Wash | Marc de Bourgogne brine | Burgundy wine or Marc | | Texture | Spoonable, custardy | Slightly firmer, concave top | | Aroma | Very pungent | Pungent, but milder | | Classic Serving | Scooped from the box | Filled with Champagne or Marc |
Storage
Keep Époisses refrigerated in its original wooden box, loosely wrapped or stored in an airtight container to contain the aroma — your refrigerator companions will thank you. Consume within five to seven days of purchase for peak quality. Never freeze Époisses; the delicate, custardy texture will not survive and the complex character will be lost entirely. If the rind begins to crack significantly or the paste turns grey, it has passed its prime.