What Is Appenzeller?
Appenzeller is one of Switzerland's oldest and most distinctive cheeses, produced in the canton of Appenzell in the northeastern corner of the country for over 700 years. Historical records trace its origins to at least the 13th century, when monks and Alpine farmers fashioned wheels from the rich milk of local Braunvieh cows grazing high summer pastures.
What sets Appenzeller apart from every other Swiss cheese — and indeed from nearly any cheese in the world — is its rind treatment. During aging, each wheel is regularly rubbed with a proprietary liquid mixture of white wine, cider, herbs, and spices. The exact recipe is a closely guarded trade secret known only to a handful of people, giving the cheese its signature complexity and an air of delicious mystery.
In 1999, Appenzeller received AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée) protection — now classified under Switzerland's AOP (Appellation d'Origine Protégée) system — ensuring it can only be produced within the traditional Appenzell region using milk from local herds. Today, roughly 75 dairies cooperate under strict guidelines to produce approximately 9,000 tonnes annually.
Taste & Texture
Appenzeller rewards patience. The paste is smooth, supple, and ivory to pale gold in color, with occasional small eyes scattered throughout. It slices cleanly and melts evenly — qualities that make it as practical as it is pleasurable.
On the palate, expect a layered experience: an initial tang gives way to warm spice, ripe stone fruit, and a lingering herbaceous finish that whispers of Alpine meadows. The herbal brine permeates the paste subtly — never overwhelming, always present. Younger wheels (the silver label, aged 3–4 months) are milder and milky; the gold label (4–6 months) steps up in intensity; and the rare black label (minimum 6–8 months) delivers a concentrated, almost peppery boldness prized by serious enthusiasts.
How to Serve Appenzeller
Always serve Appenzeller at room temperature — remove it from the refrigerator at least 30–45 minutes before serving. Cold cheese mutes its aromatic complexity, which is arguably its greatest asset.
On a cheeseboard, pair it alongside dried apricots, walnuts, and cornichons. Its assertive character holds up beautifully against cured meats like bresaola or air-dried beef (Bündnerfleisch). For cooking, it excels in fondue, gratins, and savory tarts, melting into a gloriously smooth, fragrant sauce. A glass of off-dry Riesling or a light Pinot Noir from Alsace makes an elegant partner.
Appenzeller vs. Gruyère
| Feature | Appenzeller | Gruyère | |---|---|---| | Region | Appenzell, NE Switzerland | Gruyères, W Switzerland | | Aging | 3–8 months | 5–12+ months | | Rind | Herbal brine washed | Natural brushed rind | | Flavor | Spicy, fruity, herbal | Nutty, earthy, caramelized | | Texture | Smooth, supple, few eyes | Firm, dense, no eyes | | Best Use | Cheeseboards, fondue, gratins | Fondue, French onion soup |
Storage
Wrap Appenzeller in wax paper or cheese paper — never plastic wrap, which traps moisture and dulls the rind's aromatics. Store in the warmest part of your refrigerator (the vegetable drawer is ideal) at around 8–12°C (46–54°F). Properly stored, a cut piece keeps well for two to three weeks. If a little surface mold appears on the rind, simply scrape it away — the interior will be unaffected.